Saturday, May 06, 2006

 

And on the 5th wave...

...a great light spread across the beach and the congregation were up standing to behold the new master! He then saluted the fact that his achievement was caught on video and fell backwards off his surfboard.

Sand? Check.
Water? Check.
Rubber suit that makes you look like a walrus without tusks? Check.
Surfboard the size of an 8 person dining table? Check.
Let's go surfing...Now!

Today we got the ferry from Sydney to Manly to go and check out the beach, sit in the sunshine and generally relax. This for me lasted about 15 mins and I then decided that I needed my first surfing lesson. I went to see Murray (that's a good Australian name) and signed myself up for 2 hours leaving Anna on the beach with the camera to capture the exceptional surfing that would no doubt be laid open for the public to admire over the next 2 hours.

The lesson started with some stretching. Nothing too difficult. The next stage involved rolling around in the sand pretending to jump up on a surfboard. That too was easy money. Then we had to go into the water. This, as they say on MTV Cribs, is where the magic was to happen.

I've hit a lot of water today. Sometimes forwards, sometimes backwards, regularly sideways and once, quite painfully, headfirst over the front of the board and into the sea bed. After a few waves and only some very brief standing up before falling off Murray had some advice for me.

"Wait until you're properly balanced before waving to the camera."

It turned out to be good advice because when taken on board I managed to stand, balance, ride the wave in to shore, wave to the camera and then fall off.

Once I had ridden one I decided I was ready for bigger waves. I wasn't. I spent the next 30 mins being thrown from my board, rolled around in the surf and then for further humilation my board, luckily covered in foam, would occasionally come along and hit me when I was least expecting it. After a few of those I returned to the beginners' waves and attempted to perfect my surfing skills.

So what do I do next? It seems I need some fairly long curly blonde hair. I had better get some beads (ankle, wrist or neck are all approved locations.) I need to shed a few pounds. I will have to get a hooded top. I'll move to Cornwall. Obviously I'll get a board and a wet suit. Then the real clincher....I will by myself a VW camper van. Then I can truly proclaim that I am a surfer.





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