Thursday, February 23, 2006
Shinkansen to Shinto!
We set off at the best time on Wednesday...rush hour! Thermals are not needed in this situation! We were on our way to Nikko, a place 2 hours north of Tokyo famous for its Shinto shrines and temples. We knew it was set up in the hills so we were thermalled-up! Red-faced and sweating, we managed to find our way to the bullet train (a shinkansen called Max). When bullet trains pull in to the station to start their journey the cleaners stand guard, broom in hand and bow to the driver. You wouldn't see that at home....when have you ever seen a cleaner on a train? Once it stops they all jump on and efficiently clean the train and turn the seats around if required as everyone travels facing forwards. I was expecting to find some sort of seat belt arrangement and was prepared for g-force but it turned out to be distinctly un-bullet-like! However, the scenery on the way to Nikko was beautiful with snow-capped mountains in the distance. We arrived and decided to brave the uphill walk to the temples, which was somewhat shocking to the tourist information lady who felt the need to wear a mask to protect herself from disease-ridden foreigners. (So many people here wear masks, especially on the trains going to and from work...this lady had clearly forgotten to remove her mask when she got to work that day!) On the mask subject. Firstly I'm not sure what they are protecting themselves from. Secondly the majority of masks available seem remarkably dis-functional. I feel I should advise these people that if your mouth or nose is visible through the top, bottom or side of the mask it's probably not offering the level of filtration that you might be hoping for.
Anyway, we managed the walk perfectly well and bought a combination ticket to get us into all the temples and grounds. It had been snowing there recently which added to the beauty and serenity of the place. It was freezing though and we were grateful to have our thermals on despite the unpleasant experience on the train! By the way, all the train seats in Tokyo appear to be heated! Anyway, it was a lovely place and we were starving by the time we left. We had read about this little cafe in Nikko in the Lonely Planet and it certainly lived up to its great review. We had the nicest meal so far - shame we had chopsticks which hindered the speed that the food went in our mouths! Sticky chiken on skewers, noodles, rice and deep-fried vegetables - yum. The place was called Hippari Dako and should be visited by anyone going to Nikko. Take something to pin to the wall.
The result of all this food and a much-appreciated heated seat meant instant sleep for me in particular. Apparently I almost had my head on the guy's shoulder next to me, but he was reading porn so I probably could have dribbled on his shoulder and he wouldn't have noticed! He was wearing a mask. Careful to stop any filth entering his mouth and nose but unconcerned by the filth entering his eyes! The rest of the evening passed in a sleepy haze - went to bed at 9pm! Party animal or what!?